Barcelona keeps its own hours. When most of the world is winding down at 5, the Catalan capital is only just clearing its throat — dinner won't happen until 9 or 10, so the early evening belongs to the terrassa: a small beer (una caña), a vermouth over ice with an olive, and a plate of something to share while the Gothic Quarter throws long shadows.

The Spanish took the humble gin and tonic and made it a national art form, served in balloon glasses the size of fishbowls, packed with botanicals. Order one on a plaça as the light turns amber and you'll understand why nobody here is watching the clock.

It's a city built for the unhurried drink — and somewhere in the world, it's always just turned five in Barcelona.